The wild, harsh island of Folegandros, one of the smallest of the western Cyclades, has its own special charm. Explore its wind-buffeted hamlets of white houses and arid, austere landscapes. Beach lovers will have to walk along dirt tracks or take a caïque to get to the inlets. The picturesque little capital, Hora, is something of an upmarket resort with its kastro, nightlife, busy squares and restaurants.