The enormous Kii peninsula juts into the Pacific between Osaka and Nagoya and its southern tip is a secret world of vigorous torrents and steep mountains wooded with cedars and bamboos. Thirteen centuries ago the Shintoists attributed many divinities to this earthly paradise. They are still present, and believers honour them at Kumano Sanzan, three shrines in perfect harmony with their natural environment. Pilgrim paths connect the shrines.