In Iwaki’s kitchen, owner-chef Ryoichi Endo gives free rein to the skills he cultivated in ryotei and kappo. Hassun plates decorated with seasonal flowers and leaves and nimono soup in a lacquered bowl incorporate seasonal notes for a pleasingly old-school presentation. Charcoal-grilled fish and meat creations are accompanied by sauces. The owner-chef’s skill is evident in the variety of items that offer a creative tweak while respecting tradition.