In the shadow of downtown Houston right off Highway 10 is Justin Yu’s wedge of a restaurant. There’s little else in the area, but the red stop sign at the intersection is, poignantly enough, also at the front door. Counter seating is practically shoulder to shoulder, knee to knee, but it is a prime perch for taking in all that this welcoming restaurant has to offer. The cuisine is hard to pin down but know that everything looks simpler than it really is and seasoned far better than you could have imagined. Highlights include fried bread with tomato fondant, cured carrots blanketed in a savory onion emulsion, and a roast chicken leg coated in vadouvan. Don’t leave without trying the warmbrûléed butter cake smeared with strawberry jam.